A Sparkling Legacy: The History of Trifari Costume Jewelry (Pre-2000)
A Sparkling Legacy: The History of Trifari Costume Jewelry (Pre-2000)
If you've ever admired the glimmer of a vintage brooch or the elegance of a rhinestone necklace, there's a good chance you've encountered Trifari—one of the most beloved and enduring names in costume jewelry. For collectors and fashion lovers alike, Trifari represents a golden era of craftsmanship and design. Let’s take a closer look at Trifari’s rich history before the year 2000, explore their maker’s marks, and learn how to identify quality Trifari pieces.
Trifari TM Clear Rhinestone Frontal Necklace, Silver Tone, 1980s Vintage Jewelry
The Origins of Trifari
Trifari was founded in 1910 by Gustavo Trifari, an Italian immigrant with a vision for creating beautiful yet affordable jewelry. The company rose to prominence in the 1930s after hiring Alfred Philippe, a former designer for Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. Philippe introduced refined design techniques, like the use of invisible settings and high-end plating, which elevated Trifari's costume jewelry to near-fine jewelry status.
Throughout the 1930s–1950s, Trifari became a go-to brand for glamorous, high-quality accessories. Their designs graced everyone from movie stars to First Ladies—most famously, Mamie Eisenhower, who wore Trifari to her husband’s presidential inauguration.
Crown Trifari Brutalist Necklace, Electra Collection, 1950s Vintage Jewelry
Trifari Through the Decades
1930s–1940s: Trifari’s “jelly belly” pins, floral sprays, and patriotic motifs were incredibly popular. The pieces from this time were often crafted with sterling silver (due to wartime metal rationing) and marked with “Trifari Sterling.”
1950s–1960s: Known for timeless elegance, Trifari produced classic pieces using high-quality plating and intricate detailing. Gold and rhodium plating became the standard, and many designs used brilliant faux pearls and rhinestones.
1970s–1980s: Trifari adapted to fashion trends with bolder colors, larger pieces, and more abstract designs. Quality remained high, but materials and styles were more experimental.
1990s: Trifari was acquired by the Monet Group, and later Liz Claiborne Inc. Designs became more mass-market, though still well-crafted and collectible.
Trifari Maker’s Marks: What to Look For
One of the best ways to date a Trifari piece is by examining the maker’s mark on the reverse side. Here are a few common examples:
“Trifari” with a crown over the “T” – Used starting around the late 1930s. Highly sought after by collectors.
“Trifari Pat. Pend.” or “Pat. Pend.” – Indicates the design was patented or in the process, common in the 1940s–50s.
“Trifari TM” – The “TM” stands for trademark, used in the 1980s–1990s after the brand changed ownership.
“Trifari ©” – The copyright symbol began appearing around the mid-1950s.
“Trifari Sterling” – Found on wartime pieces from the early 1940s.
Knowing these marks can help you estimate the production period and determine authenticity.
Crown Trifari Floral Hinged Bracelet, Gold Plated, 1950s Vintage Jewelry
How to Identify Quality Trifari Jewelry
While Trifari is widely known for its quality, here are a few tips to help you spot top-tier pieces:
Finish: Look for thick, smooth plating (often rhodium or gold-toned). It should feel substantial and show minimal wear for its age.
Stones: High-quality rhinestones will be prong-set, not glued, and should still have sparkle. Faux pearls will appear evenly coated.
Weight: Trifari pieces often feel solid and well-made—not flimsy or hollow.
Construction: Check the back of the piece. Trifari was known for neat, clean craftsmanship—even the unseen parts are nicely finished.
Design: Pieces designed by Alfred Philippe tend to be more detailed and refined, often resembling fine jewelry.
Why Collect Trifari?
Collectors love Trifari not just for its beauty, but for its enduring craftsmanship and historical significance. Each piece tells a story—from the glamour of old Hollywood to the elegance of postwar fashion. Whether you’re a seasoned vintage hunter or just getting started, Trifari offers timeless charm at every turn.