The Enduring Legacy of Miriam Haskell: A Journey Through America's Most Coveted Costume Jewelry
In the glittering world of vintage costume jewelry, few names command as much respect and admiration as Miriam Haskell. From her humble beginnings in Indiana to becoming one of the most celebrated jewelry designers of the 20th century, Haskell's story is one of vision, business acumen, and an unwavering commitment to quality that continues to captivate collectors today.
Miriam Haskell Photo Locket Necklace
The Woman Behind the Brand
Miriam Haskell was born on July 2, 1899, in Tell City, Indiana, a small town on the Ohio River, approximately 80 miles southwest of Louisville, Kentucky, to Russian Jewish immigrant parents. After completing high school in New Albany, this ambitious young woman would go on to revolutionize the costume jewelry industry.
Miriam Haskell (1899-1981) was an American designer of costume jewelry who, with creative partner Frank Hess, designed affordable pieces from 1920 through the 1960s. What makes her story particularly fascinating is the mystery surrounding her actual hands-on involvement in design work. Many people refer to her as if a single woman crafted every piece of jewelry with her name on it, but no one really knows how many pieces she actually produced with her own hands—the consensus among jewelry historians is not much.
Miriam Haskell Gold Plated Chain Necklace
The Birth of an Empire (1926)
Miriam Haskell established her company in New York City in 1926, opening the doors of her first jewelry boutique. The company first gained prominence when it displayed her jewelry in New York City's McAlpin Hotel. This strategic location in Manhattan would prove to be just the beginning of her retail expansion.
The business grew remarkably quickly. Within a year of opening her first boutique, a second shop was opened, and over the 1930s the Haskell business was expanded until it occupied multiple shops and had headquarters on the famed Fifth Avenue. Her jewelry was soon sold in the most exclusive department stores in America.
Miriam Haskell Long Faux Pearl Necklace
The Frank Hess Partnership: A Creative Revolution
Perhaps the most crucial decision in Miriam Haskell's business journey was hiring Frank Hess. That same year Frank Hess, a former window dresser for Macy's, joined her as a jewelry designer in 1926. This partnership would define the Haskell aesthetic for decades to come.
Frank was with the company for decades and helped to develop the Haskell signature style. More specifically, Hess ended up being with The Miriam Haskell Company for 36 years—longer than Haskell herself, and is largely credited for having created the signature Miriam Haskell look.
The pair worked together until 1950, when due to poor health she sold the company to her brother, Joseph. Frank Hess continued to design for the company until 1960.
Miriam Haskell Brass Wheat Chain Long Necklace
The Signature Haskell Style
What made Miriam Haskell jewelry so distinctive? She was known for her beautiful vintage costume jewelry, designing intricate beads, pearls, and rhinestones into glamorous pieces in the 1920s-1950s. The designs were characterized by their exceptional attention to detail and quality construction.
Hess's jewelry designs for Miriam Haskell often featured a range of materials, including glass beads, pearls, and other precious and semi-precious elements. The company was known for its perfectionist approach—Miriam Haskell used to choose, one by one, the components from which she made her jewelry, visiting production plants both in the USA and abroad and wanting to oversee every phase of the work.
Miriam Haskell Black Beaded Necklace
Cultural Impact and Hollywood Glamour
The timing of Haskell's rise coincided perfectly with major cultural movements. During the Egyptomania craze in the early 1900s shortly after King Tut's tomb was exhumed in 1922, many costume jewelry designers looked to the ancient world for inspiration. Some Haskell pieces featuring mummies, sphinxes, and scarab forms which recall the themes and motifs of ancient Egyptian jewelry command high values now.
The brand also gained significant recognition through its association with Hollywood glamour. With creative partner Frank Hess, Miriam Haskell designed affordable costume jewelry pieces promoted by some of Hollywood's biggest names.
The Mystery of Authorship
One of the most intriguing aspects of Miriam Haskell's legacy involves the question of creative authorship. It isn't known if Miriam herself ever designed any of the pieces sold by the Haskell company. Although she was very involved in the day-to-day operations of her business, one of her most crucial decisions was to have hired Frank Hess.
However, one thing is for sure—Haskell was an incredible businesswoman. Her vision and business acumen were instrumental in creating a brand that would outlast her own involvement in the company.
Miriam Haskell Long Pink Art Glass Beaded Necklace
Evolution and Signatures
As was the custom with many costume jewelry manufacturers of the time, her items went unsigned for many years. Not until her brother took over did the pieces begin to bear the Haskell signature, making dating and authentication crucial skills for collectors today.
After Frank Hess departed in 1960, the company continued to evolve. Petronzio was head designer for about twenty years. She kept an eye on the past and liked to remake archival Haskell pieces with a modern twist.
The Collector's Market Today
Miriam Haskell jewelry is hugely popular and highly collectible, and for good reason. Her jewelry is still popular among collectors today for its artistry and quality. The market reflects this enduring appeal: Today, Haskell pieces from the 1950s and 1960s with rhinestones and other faux gemstones command $250 to $650.
Even a single strand of faux baroque pearls is noteworthy with a Haskell mark, and the more elaborate styles made by this company can indeed bring top dollar. Some exceptional pieces achieve even higher prices, with a milk glass and crystal rhinestone bracelet by Haskell recently selling for $400 with an organic design featuring veined milk glass and a leaf motif.
Miriam Haskell Faux Baroque Pearl Button Style Clip Earrings
Legacy and Continuation
In the world of vintage costume jewelry, Miriam Haskell is one of the most recognizable, collectible and enduring jewelry brands of the 20th century. The company continues today as Haskell Jewels, LLC, maintaining the tradition established nearly a century ago.
The enduring legacy of Miriam Haskell remains a testament to its founder, the woman who envisioned a place for a line of high-end costume jewelry in America and took a chance to make her vision a reality.
Collecting Tips for Enthusiasts
For those interested in collecting Miriam Haskell pieces, authentication is crucial given the brand's popularity and value. Key factors to consider include:
- Signature Evolution: Understanding when pieces began to be signed helps with dating
- Construction Quality: The meticulous attention to detail in authentic pieces
- Materials: The distinctive use of glass beads, pearls, and quality findings
- Design Elements: Recognition of the characteristic Haskell aesthetic developed primarily by Frank Hess
Conclusion
Miriam Haskell's story transcends the typical designer narrative. She was a visionary entrepreneur who recognized the potential for high-quality costume jewelry in the American market and built a business empire that continues to thrive. Whether she personally designed each piece matters less than her role in creating a brand that has become synonymous with excellence in costume jewelry.
From her modest beginnings in Indiana to the exclusive boutiques of Fifth Avenue, Miriam Haskell created more than jewelry—she created an enduring American luxury brand that continues to captivate collectors and jewelry enthusiasts nearly a century after its founding. Her legacy reminds us that sometimes the greatest achievement is not in the making, but in the visioning and building of something that outlasts its creator.